1 Step at at Time...

7/21/08 - Amos decided to drive up to Lincoln, NH where Tupperware, Spock & Twiggy, Buns & Roses were waiting for him - he's planning on going back to finish the section of trail (157 miles worth) that he missed in Vermont after they reach the summit of Katahdin.

• Arrived at Chet's house in Lincoln yesterday and just in time to enter the White Mtns! (Chet was blinded and confined to a wheelchair by a camp stove explosion years ago and has since opened a hostel for AT hikers.)
• Woke up and went to McDonalds for breakfast - Egg McMuffin, hash browns & coffee.
• A little out of shape from the 2 weeks worth of recovery (plus the White's are notoriously difficult) so they packed up slackpacks & took a shuttle to Kinsman Notch where they hiked south toward NH 25.
• Started with a 3000 ft climb up Mt. Moosilauke - most of it following a really, really, really pretty waterfall - until it disappeared near Beaver Brook Shelter.
• On Mt. Moosilauke, they were above treeline for the first time on the entire AT (I love that there are still "firsts" on his adventure!). They ate lunch up top where it was slightly windy & cold and where they met up with Mouth & Chef (2 north bounders).
• Climbed back down to Jeffers Brook Shelter when it started raining.
• Came to a brook near NH 25 and most crossed the raging torrent (sarcasm) in bare feet while Tupperware & Spock decided to build a bridge instead. They spent about a half hour stacking rocks and then crossed... Spock traversed successfully while Tupp fell in & got his shoes all wet anyway.
• Arrived at NH 25 where they stuck their thumbs out and caught a hitch to a gas station down the road to use the phone. Called the shuttle service only to find it extremely expensive & settled on having the hostel pick them up instead.
• Ate McDonalds - again! Then cleaned up- took showers & did laundry.
• Chet's house was chaos but all Amos wanted to do was go to sleep as he had only 4 hrs the night before. Snagged a bunk & drifted off to la la land.
• 9.5 mi slack.

7/22/08 - Ate breakfast at McDonalds AGAIN!! Hearts said he could feel his arteries clogging as he downed 3 hash browns - each of which you could squeeeze out the grease...

• Stood outside to hitch a ride back to Kinsman Notch but had some difficulty so Roses decided they needed a catch... something to grab peoples attention & instill security that they weren't a bunch of crazies... something like choreographed hitchhiking!! You can think of it as being similar to synchronized swimming for thumbs... and they did become quite creative! Unfortunately, all they got were a bunch of giggles, looks, and people pointing at them but no ride - so it didn't quite work - but it did pass the time!
• Eventually, a past thru-hiker from 1980 drove by & picked them up (they had given up the song & dance by then).
• Steep ascent up the Kinsman Peaks where they were met with more above treeline action. From North Peak -whenever the clouds & fog would break- they could see Franconia Ridge (the start of the Presidential Range).
• Then to the first hut - AMC Hut - to fill up water. [I learned that AMC stands for Appalachian Mountain Club and that they maintain the White Mtns but that they nickel and dime hikers to death and are thus often called the Appalachian Money Club. They argue that the $8 cost to stay in shelters and $90 cost to stay in their solar powered huts are necessary to helicopter in bark mulch for decomposition in the privies. At one point, Tupperware bought an AMC patch in one of the huts, asked for a red magic marker (in front of the salesman), proceeded to scribble a big circle with a line through their logo, and then safety pinned it to his pack. It would seem there's some tension between thru-hikers and the AMC...]
• 3 miles downhill, they walked past Kinsman Falls which Amos described as being the beginning of an "awesome, amazing" class V section of river known as Cascade Creek. He took (and you can enjoy) SEVERAL (maybe a half a roll of film's worth of) photos.
• Arrived at Franconia Notch & I-93 where it is illegal to hitchhike... they did it anyway. Got a hitch back to Rt 3 and then another from Rt 3 into Lincoln.
• It was a zoo back at Chet's house. Every hiker you could imagine had converged: The General, Jukebox, Chief Daddy, Mouth & Chef, Loafy, Catfish, Root, a bunch of south-bounders they didn't know, and 1 homeless guy.
• Not thrilled with the situation but Roses made up for it by whipping together a spaghetti dinner complete with salad & garlic bread for their little band (plus Chet).
• 16 mi day.

7/23/08 - DIDN'T eat McDonalds! Whohoo! But they did zero today due to bad weather on the mountain.

• Went to breakfast & had pancakes.
• Spock & Hearts went to several different outfitters to find water filters and they somehow managed to convince a clerk to open brand new water filters, take the filter out of the pump and sell them just the filter! That's skill.
• Then to the post office where everyone, except Hearts, mailed forward food.
• Back to Chet's (more chaos) for Poker & Eukre tournaments. Hearts didn't win, but Tupperware did - the Poker champion!
• Tupperware's dad surprised the group by putting $ into his account specifically to take the crew out to dinner!
• They went to a really fancy restaurant that served "free" hors d'oeuvres while waiting to be seated. (The word "free" is in parentheses because we all know nothing in life is free. It has been suggested that the very same "free" hors d'oeuvres were probably responsible for making Spock & Roses sick later that night...) Once they were seated in the main dining room, they realized the food was too hoity-toity and decided to go back & eat in the bar.
• Amos enjoyed a crab cake sandwich which was "to die for" (thankfully he didn't).
• After dinner, Spock was challenged to a game of checkers by an elitist 9 year old & LOST!! Man, that hurts!
• Amos shuttled the crew back to Chet's in his dad's little Honda Insight & then called it a day.

Critters in all shapes & sizes...

5/14/08 - Started the day with a baby bear encounter! Said the little tyke was itty bitty - smaller than Trinity - and sweet... but not knowing where momma bear was lurking made them EXTREMELY nervous...

• Hiked along Skyline Drive after a pit stop at the Loft Mountain Wayside.
• Found another thru-hiker's wallet at a road crossing along the way.
• Ran into Rangers doing a Peregrine Falcon study - so the fellas chatted them up about the research & what they (as hikers) had to do to become rangers... graciously obliging in the conversation (which I think was a bit of bull - at least on Half-brew's part) they explained the hardships that they've found to accompany their rigorous & apparently highly competitive field.
• Took a break ~5 mi before Hightop Shelter where they ran into ANOTHER baby bear which led them to mom and 3 additional siblings!! That's 5 bears in 1 day!
• 21.5 mi. Returned Hugs' wallet once they arrived at the shelter - ecstatic to have it back and true to his name, everyone got hugs - Half-brew grabbed his butt... awkward...

5/15/08 - Cruised through first 11.5-12 mi - no stops save a few small breaks.

• Until... a 4 hour break at Lewis Mountain Campground & Wayside. Beer, munchies, ice cream.
• Also managed to squeeze in a shower & ticked off the campground attendant by sharing a 50 cent towel after taking a $1 shower. I don't know who to think behaved more comically in this situation... the lady for caring enough about sharing a 50 cent towel to yell or the boys for not forking over an additional half-dollar.
• Brew-hike: bought another 6 pack for the road & drank one at every overlook until rain forced them to pack it in for the night at Big Meadow Lodge.
• Saw a ton of deer along the way.
• Passed 900 mi! Today's total = 20.5 mi.

5/16/08 - Woke up covered in Kibbles 'n Bits. Trinity knocked her food off the bed & all over Hearts!

• Breakfast at Big Meadows Wayside - egg McMuffin w/cheese... delish.
• Didn't leave wayside till noon & hiked 9 mi to Skyland Lodge to decide on plans for the rest of the day.
• Plans heavily dependant on 'summer blizzard' (though nasty, maybe a bit of an exaggeration): cold, rain, fog, wind.
• Decided to stay at Skyland (name sounds creepy - like Michael Jackson's ranch) & got lost trying to find tent/cabin. (I wanna know how they can hike from Georgia to Maine with no maps whatsoever & manage get themselves lost in a campground??!)
• Burned a pile of ticks they found on Trinity - yuck! Amos said he's found at least 15 ticks on himself in the last few weeks but has been able to pinch them all off before they scurried up past his knees.
• When asked if he regretted sending all of his fleece & other warm weather gear home with me he responded with a shaky, "Nah, its all good..." I think that means he's chilly.

Treerific timing...

3/4/08 - Woke-up in a big converted barn.

• 17.5 mi today.
• Hiked up Little Hump & Big Hump and into 60 mph winds on both mountains... blustery.
• Spent the remainder of the day below 3000 ft & strolled along Elk River for a good section of trail - which was a lovely change in pace... & scenery!
• Lots of "hillbilly" trash along the road again today, but no goats...
• Dinner: Chopped up wild onions to "ramp-up" instant mashed potatoes - mmm good move!
• Stayed at Mountaineer Falls Shelter.

4/5/08 - It poured all night.

• Woke up & hiked first 8 mi or so with Spock & Twiggy - started calling Twiggy "Hammer Pants" because her winter pants are a little big... that's ok - she's been calling him "Mary Poppins!"
• Change in plans: FINALLY had cell phone service around noon. Just in time to learn that Scot was on his way down & would be there around 2:00! A fierce desire to boat with Cody MUST have consumed him because he jogged the remaining 7.5 mi to Kincora Hostel and wound up getting there a half an hour before Scot & posse!
• As he reached Dennis Cove Rd. he looked back & a HUGE tree fell right where he had just been hiking!!
• Passed fellow thru-hikers Kerbie & Ken. They were all meandering down a trail headed into town when Amos looked back up the hill right as Kerbie tripped & fell... & then continued to fall for roughly 25-30 yards... straight down! It took another big tree to bring Kerbie to a stop! Amos (jokingly) told him he wasn't allowed to cheat & that he had to go back up the hill & hike back down... he did!!
• Boating for the next few days but should be back to AT around mid-week.

Up up and away...

4/3/08 - Crazy guy DID ride his Harley & lawnmower around this morning just as crazy lady predicted... at 5 am!! Lots of benchmarks today:

• Climbed Roan Mountain which rose over 3,000 ft in a span of only 3 mi!
• Last time over 6,000 ft until Mt. Washington in New Hampshire - good news.
• Less than 1800 mi to go!
• Last day walking the line between NC & TN and last night in North Carolina altogether!
• Day was described as such: Cold WIND WIND WIND WIND cold & rain... and then some more rain wind & cold. All in all not much fun.
• 14 AT mi to Overmountain Shelter - really cold & desperate to get warm under his quilt.

Sip & slide...

3/28/08 - Goal was to hike 8 mi to Hot Springs & relax... maybe visit the springs...

• Made it there by noon.
• Spent 4 hours resupplying, playing on the Internet & eating lunch. Ate & drank 2 beers with a old friend he met at the beginning of the AT.
• Once his drinking buddy left (to take a week off & visit home), he quickly became bored & decided to keep on keepin' on...
• In haste to make it the additional 10 mi to the next shelter - forgot to restock his water supply (bad because he was SUPER thirsty from the two pints - as close to drunk-hiking as he's come all trip) & had to bum drinking water off a family on the trail!! (I feel like mooching food & water off of families has become so commonplace it should become its own blog label...)
• Managed to find his own water at the next gap.
• Got to Spring Mountain Shelter (which was bursting at the seems with people) at dark. VERY nice to be around fellow hikers after not seeing anyone for the last 2 days!
• Pitched tarp outside as it started to rain. Must have been a quick pitch (some might say haphazard) cause he wound up sliding a few feet down hill while he slept & the bottom half of him got soaked!

3/29/08 - Woke up wet and to another rainy day ahead.

• Hiked down to Allen Gap & came across a sign that said "Trail Magic to the Right!" - OF COURSE he followed it & it led him to a Christian couple (also former thru-hikers) who had opened up their kitchen to serve the masses: waffles, stew, and an assortment of deserts (banana splits, brownie-fudge sundaes, and cherry pie a la mode)! Hearts went for the chocolate : )
• Here's the twist: Before he made that rather tasty right-hand turn, a man from the Hemlock Hollow Hostel tried to dissuade him from going by spouting something like, "You don't know what's in that food." Amos warned the trail angels of the hostel-owner's attack & a BIG confrontation of the two groups ensued with Amos smack-dab in the middle! I guess the hostel-owner thought the trail angels were killing his business & Amos wound-up arguing in favor of the Christian couple and their trail magic... awkward!
• Back to the trail & up up up 5 mi to the top o' the hill where he encountered a youth group from KY passing out scripture-wrapped Snickers!! Amos took 8 - 8 Snickers.
• I don't know about you but to me this trip seems like it's been inordinately laced with goodies. In my mind walking the AT is like playing a life-sized game of Candyland. This morning, he drew the purple card & moved ahead 5 spaces to hang-out with Gloppy the Chocolate Monster... perhaps tomorrow he'll meet Gramma Nut or The Gingerbread People... yeah, hands-off Princess Lolly the skinny Viking with the sweet-tooth's mine!
• 15 and a half miles today.
• Jerry Cabin was full. One fellow hiker took up 2 spots with his dog so Hearts had to pitch the tarp... again.
• Unusual occurrences: some guy who likes to hike at night wound up walking in circles around the camp in search of a missing food bag - he got lost in the fog - & a frog jumped on Amos' face!

3/30/08 - Wet. Cloudy. Cold. Windy.

• The dense fog that shrouded the mountains all morning lifted part-way through the day, but EVERYTHING he has is wet. Go figure, the fog tends to seep in the cracks & crevices unlike a more reliable rain.
• Devised a way to dry his sleeping bag by wearing it like a cape the latter portion of the day. (It's almost dry!) Who wouldn't kill to stumble across Superhearts on the trail!!?
• 17.5 mi. Camping about a mile and a half past I-26. In hot pursuit of The General - maybe 2 or 3 miles behind him?! Not bad for taking almost a week off!

Home is where the Hartford is...

3/17/08 - 14.5 mi to Double Spring Gap shelter. Caught 2 FANTASTIC 360 degree views back-to-back! One at Rocky Tops (which was ironically a big grassy peak w/ a small pile of rocks at the wee top) and the other at Thunderhead Mtn.

• The 1st and last 2 miles were BEAUTIFUL but the middle 12.5 were fairly uneventful.
• Some dad made his kid begrudgingly give Amos his chocolate covered pretzels (Amos of course gladly & quickly accepted)!
• REALLY windy, foggy, misty, cold so Hearts made a fire in the shelter.
  

3/18/08 - Started hiking around 5:30 am to catch the sunrise at Clingman's Dome - hiked in the dark & said it was one of the creepiest things he's ever done... especially cause his headlamp was near death the entire time - his back-up plan was light by cellphone...

• Trek up to Clingman's was EXTREMELY foggy & the clouds were "whipping past him at 80 mph"!!
• At Newfound Gap an "Ultra-Republican-Southerner" gave him snacks and a drink on the stipulation that Amos not vote for Obama.... (little did he know, Amos already voted for Obama, and I LOVE that Amos momentarily set aside his deep-seated, ultra-liberal political viewpoints for a lemonade)!
  
• I got there around 1ish & took Hearts & Spruce down to Gatlinsburg - my favorite part of the car ride was when Spruce learned Amos' real name!!
• Ate some mexican, napped at the base of the Smokys in the sun, drank $2 pints at Smoky Mountain Brewery with Isaac, and housed a pint of "Everything But The..." ice cream (Ben & Jerry of course).

3/19/08 - No miles... no miles for the next few days. Staying with Isaac in Hartford. The brother(s) will start hiking again on Easter (this Sunday). Knee needs a break. I need a break.

• Crab rangooon for breakfast, stopped to visit Isaac at work, went grocery shopping (took FOREVER), drank wine, ate peanut butter fudge (which wasn't "peanut-buttery enough" says the man who eats like 8 oz of straight-up peanut butter a day), played rummy (I lost royally, 545 to 355), tossed around football, ran Big Creek with Isaac, power outage, drank some more wine - good relaxing rainy day.
• Thrilled not to be soaked to the bone in the upper Smokys!
  

Hiking in the Smokys made dam near bearable...

3/15/08 - Another stormy day... Hiked 13 mi to Fontana Dam & stayed at the "Fontana Hilton" - the nicest shelter on the whole dam trail. (Brandi - don't get agitated about the missing 'n' - it's a play on words!)

• Hitchhiked into a nearby village with Ron. Stopped at the general store to resupply - he was shy 1 dinner and unwilling to live off of his oatmeal stockpile.
• BONUS: Laundromat open & they were able to dry their clothes! In true Hearts form, he housed a pint of ice cream while they waited.
• You know what's unbearable... no cell phone service when he's hiking along ridges through severe thunderstorms. The same low pressure system that spurred the EF2 tornado in downtown Atlanta the night before!

3/16/08 - Welcome to Great Smoky Mountains National Park! Started out around 60 degrees at the dam this morning but temps dropped drastically once he got into the mountains. Said most of the higher peaks in the Smokys look like they're capped with rime (a lesson in earth science - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rime_ice). Brrr.

• Grabbed a Mr. Pibb at the visitor center to wash down his cereal... bleah! Apparently, he's been craving sweets like nobody's business since he got on the trail.
• Hiked up Shuckstack Mtn. I only mention it because he LOVED saying "Shuckstack" and because on the way up he stopped to fill up his tank at a natural spring & looked 20 feet back down the mountain just as a HUGE BLACK BEAR crossed the trail!!! He tried to snap a picture & may have managed to get a slightly obscured shot as it was passing through some thick weeds!
• Unknowingly wandered into Tennessee & passed a sign that said he has less than 2000 mi to Katahdin!!
• Today's tally: 17 mi. Got the last spot at Spence Field shelter. It's filled to the brim w/ 20 people and an additional 10 more camping outside! TONS of people on the trail today! (Ron, Squire, Matthew, & Spruce are all there)

Saw it coming...

3/8/08 - Hiked 0.0 mi... I knew it! He's not leaving the Blueberry Patch... ever.

• Cold, blustery & significant snow in the mountains
• Knee is still a little sore
• Organic breakfast: eggs, biscuits, coffee, oj, fresh fruit, pancakes with... you guessed it... blueberry syzzurp!
• Played Rummy with a few other thru-hikers - Jesse, Bill, Herbie & August - came in 2nd (which means they didn't get to see how disgruntled he gets when he looses)
• Games followed by back-breaking manual labor around the hostel. My understanding is that they wound up cutting down trees, splitting firewood, pulling thicket and feeding briars to the donkeys (!)
• Leftover mexican for dinner then took a bus back to Neels Gap (you're going the wrong way!) for the annual "hiker kick-off" - which is a fancy way of saying "more free food"
• Should cross into his 1st new state tomorrow - NC or BUST!

To begin...

Original pack weight ~43 lbs

3/2/08 - Dropped off at the head of the service trail by Isaac - hiked ~8 mi to the top of Springer Mtn. to start the "offical "AT & then continued ~2 mi in to the 1st shelter.

• As I understand 51 hikers started on Saturday - maybe 9 or so started on Sunday
• Amos was given the trail name... "Hearts" - my fault... sorry - I smuggled an absurd amt. of paper hearts into his pack & they've apparently been falling out at inopportune times.

3/3/08 - 23 TOTAL miles hiked by the end of today & first blister forms... as well as a rather swollen/tender left knee.

• Good News: Caught up to many of the hikers that started on Saturday!
• Bad News: No room in any of the shelters...

3/4/08 - A TON of rain landed in Ga today - Amos said it was so windy @ the top of Blood Mtn. that he ran from shrub-to-shrub for shelter to get off the mtn. Hiked a total of 16 miles today & made it safely to Neels Gap.

• 39 miles down in 3 days!! (31 of which were 'AT miles')
• Rented a cabin for the night with the Red Ranger (apparently he has thru-hiked the trail before & all of his gear is red) - hot water, queen sized bed, tv, Dominoes pizza, the works!
• 2nd blister... ouch